Sick in Sihanoukville

On our last day in Phnom Penh, we spent a bit more time at the orphanage and relaxed around the lake district. We had bus tickets that would leave first thing in the morning for the beach destination of Sihanoukville- like, the only beach destination in all of Cambodia.

Again, I truly wish I had my own pictures to show you, but I found some that will do the trick on google images. I hope I don't get sued.

The plan was: get there as fast as possible, skip the party town and trashy beaches in Sihanoukville town, and head straight for Bamboo Island. We had been told by everyone who had been there previous that, while Sihanoukville was a bit trashy, Bamboo Island was pure paradise. And I wanted a little more paradise before I had to get on a plane once again.

So, we woke up early, had a breakfast of meusli and, in Pat's case milk, in my case yoghurt. This was going to work to my benefit later in the day. For all you people planning a trip to Southeast Asia: milk is generally a bad idea if you aren't used to it unpasteurized. In any case, we arrived in Sihanoukville and Pat wasn't feeling the greatest. In fact, he didn't leave our room for the next three days. The downside: we couldn't go to Bamboo Island (I cried a little). The upside? Pat didn't spend his daily budget of 20 bucks on food or fun, so we got to use it on a lovely hotel with a pool. That kept me occupied for our time there. Cable TV kept Pat occupied.

I did get to look around the town, and it wasn't as bad as everyone told me. Ya, ya, there are big parties every night, ya ya, the beach has a bit of a litter problem, but seriously, it was a cute little town full of sweet, friendly and polite Cambodians- quickly becoming one of my favourite nationalities. And, yeah, the food wasn't exactly authentic Cambodian fare, but it was some of the best western fare I found in all of Southeast Asia, so I wasn't exactly complaining. I would return. I hope I get to, someday.




This is Bamboo Island. Le sigh. I was supposed to go here.

This is the lovely little resort where we stayed for 20 dollars a night! A steal, if you ask me. The pool was fun.

And this is the beach we were closest to. It's called Serendipity Beach. I'm wondering how they got the photo sans trash.

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Our first drink of shady vodka. Monkey Island, Halong Bay.

On a lovely bike ride in Cat Ba Island, Halong Bay.

Boy with cow. Cat Ba Island.

Napping woman. Halong Bay.

Their boats were like convenience stores!

Janine and Gen, slightly mysterious looking. Outside the "Amazing Cave".

The harbour in halong City.

Selling everything, everywhere, at any time.

The other side of the cliff: Monkey Island resort (not our beach).

Our own little cove: Monkey Island

Our beach huts: Monkey Island

Cat Ba Island.

Scott on a bike. Cat Ba Island.

Me on a bike. Cat Ba Island.

Halong Bay

Amazing Cave

Amazing Cave

Our junk, as seen from Amazing Cave

Seriously; convenience stores!

Enjoying the balcony on our boat.

Halong Bay

Our guardian dragon.

After about two days in Hanoi, we were definitely ready to head off to Halong Bay, the famous World Heritage site in Northern Vietnam where the limestone cliffs shoot straight up out of the sea and you can explore vast caves. The woman who sold us the tour made it sound really great: the first day spent in a fancy room on a traditional Junk, yummy seafood on the menu, a cave to explore, kayaking and swimming followed by dinner and then chilling out- the second day would be spent on Cat Ba Island, the largest island in the bay, where we would bike, then hike, and finally bike again to a ferry that would take us to "Monkey Island" (self explanatory name, right?). On Mokey Island we would stay in some fancy bamboo huts and we could go kayaking, fishing, swimming and do lots of other fun activities. The final day would be spent travelling back to Hanoi, with a nice lunch as a final farewell.

Sounds really great, right? We thought so too, and Lonely Planet said that, as far as Halong Bay was concerned, you pay for what you get. So we didn't mind forking over 30 bucks a day since we thought we'd be travelling in class and style.

This sounds ominous, doesn't it? The truth is, our trip was fun. We had a great time. But either the woman who sold us the trip, or the tour guide who took us around, lied about almost everything that was in the itinerary. Not that it was a big deal, and not that we're complaining, but that was our first taste of the common deceptiveness many Vietnamese show towards foreigners... and there would be much more to come, but that's for another post. Bottom line: we love Vietnam. This country is amazing and we've had an amazing time. But very few people have been honest with us, and many have outright stolen from us. Can't have a rose without a few thorns, though, right?

So, at around 8 AM, we were picked up at our hotel. The hotel management gave us an icy goodbye, clearly angry that we had not booked our trip through them, and we were greeted on our mini bus by our first surprise- all of our boatmates, save for a brother/sister duo from Germany, were Vietnamese! Nothing wrong with that, of course, as we had fun meeting them and swimming with them was quite humourous, but the woman had told us we would be with other foreigners. Oh well! Not a big disappointment as foreigers can often be the worst travel buddies.

We left Hanoi and drove for about 3.5 hours until we reached Halong City- our jumping off point. Everywhere we looked there were tourists! Foreign and Vietnamese, old and young, rich and poor... you get the idea. When we saw the vast amount of Junks in the harbour waiting for their passengers we got a little overwhelmed. Which one was ours?!

It turns out, our was the super nice one that was anchored a little further away from the others. Sunchairs on the top deck, rooms on the bottom floor, dining room in the middle, and ladders going up the sides so you could just jump off the boat if you felt like a swim. We didn't really feel like swimming because it was drizzly and the climate up North was actually much chillier than we had been used to in the last few countries. It was a nice change from 35 degrees (or more) and sunny every day.

We lucked out even further when our guide told Me, Pat, Gen and Scott that our rooms were away from all the others, up on the same level as the dining room. When we got to our rooms we were very happy with what we saw: TV, mini fridge (for the booze and mix we were smuggling- way too expensive to buy drinks on the Junk!), nice big, comfy beds and lovely decor. Oh, and a nice bathroom with shampoo and soap and toothbrushes and hot water. Yay.

(Later we found out that the TV and fridge were just for show- indeed, Scott looked for his fridge's plug in and saw that it was non-existent- yet another little fib!)

We had a lovely lunch of fresh steamed prawns, cucmber salad, rice, meatballs and a nice seafood stirfry that was a bit spicy and featured cuttlefish. My fav.

Afterwards, we settled in on our communal balcony (only for us two couples, though- our rooms took up the back of the junk so, even though we got privacy to consume our illegal rice vodka, we also got the exhaust from the back of the boat's motor) and had a few drinks. Then we arrived at the cave (another point worth mentioning was that we passed by an island that we were supposed to visit but didn't. It looked fun, a bunch of Koreans were dancing and partying. When we asked our guide about why we didn't stop he said it wasn't on the itinerary. Liar!).

The cave was called "Amazing Cave". And actually, it was pretty cool. That being said, I never cared about seeing a cave and had very low expectations. But I think everyone thought it was pretty cool. Pat got some nice photos!

After the cave we went kayaking, although at this point it was raining pretty heavily and my glasses were wet and I couldn't see where we were going. It was still fun, though, and we weren't going to have another activity taken away from us! We passed by entire villages built on rafts. Puppies were tied on a short leash so they wouldn't fall in the bay and drown. Other dogs barked at us, and the locals stared us down as we glided past. We got up close to a few of the limestone islands and saw the grottos and small caves that are prevalent in the area. We had fun.

When we stopped kayaking, it had stopped raining. We were already wet, so we jumped off the boat into the bay. The guys jumped from the very top of the boat, while I was content with jumping off the first level. Poor Gen looked cold and didn't go in at all, but she got some pictures of us splashing around.

The next day, we were told that we could choose between biking and hiking. Woah... what? The woman told us we would be biking first, and then hiking, and then biking again. But our guide, as per usual, said that was "not part of the itinerary". We started to wonder why we booked a more expensive trip than other people. So we chose biking as we all had done our fair share of hiking already.

It was beautiful! I wish I had gotten a chance to spend more time on Cat Ba Island. It was eery; shrouded with mist, and very beautiful. The people in the village were quite friendly as well. It was a great bike ride along the vegetable fields and we all felt that we made the right decision, especially since, if we had hiked, we wouldn't be able to see anything by the time we made it to the top.

After our bike ride we made our way to Monkey Island, where we were promised a BBQ lunch on the beach. When we arrived, we saw a deserted (but nice) set of bamboo huts with a few poor souls holding up the fort. And no BBQ. But lunch was nice nonetheless- I REALLY like Vietnamese food! So, like I said, it was deserted. We were the only guests. Awesome! Our beach was isolated and only reached by boat, and it was a bit stormy when we arrived so we couldn't really do anything except drink some shady vodka we found at a street vendor (the boys drank first in case it made us go blind) and play cards. It was still pretty fun.

The next day we made it back to the mainland, had a really delicious lunch and went back to Hanoi. And that was the day we realized not to trust the average Vietnamese salesperson.

The End. (Next comes Sapa).

Ko Surin: Go for the Snorkeling; Stay for the... Snorkeling...

So, Thailand is pretty neat!

We just got back to civilization... sort of... after spending a few days on the Surin Islands near the Thai/Burmese border. We thought a lot of people went to these islands, but as we found out in Krabitown, no one had any idea (especially the Thais) where the Surins even were.

Why the Surins? Well, I wanted a beach, but there had to be more than that to keep Patrick happy (he sunburns easily, the little ginger kid...). We found out that the Surins were reputedly one of the top ten areas in the world to dive, and often in March and April you can see whalesharks. Well that information was more than enough for Pat to concede to going to the beach again. Plus we would have to sleep in a tent, and Pat likes camping. I tolerate it, but I love the beach. See where I'm going here? We're both making sacrifices.

So, after much speculation as to how to get there from Krabitown (since nobody seemed to know) we decided we would just go to the bus station and try our luck. Sure enough, the very first bus that we saw was going to Khuraburi, a small town which is also home to the National Park headquarters (because the Surins are also a National Marine Park). The only boat left at 9AM, so we spent the night in Khuraburi and relaxed. As soon as we got off the bus, a woman had approached us and asked if we would like to stay at her guesthouse. She also arranged absolutely everything else for us: boat tickets, a tent, snorkels and masks and fins, and transportation to the boat. She was really nice. She also had a nice cat and a cute little daughter. And her bungalows were nice, too.

Anyway, we got up bright and early the next day to catch our boat. There are two kinds of boats you can take- the fast one and the slow one. We were supposed to go on the slow one, but this past week was the Thai Lunar New Year and every family in Thailand ALSO decided to go to the Surins (which simply told us that we made the right decision- it must be a sweet place if every Thai and their dog was going there for vacation), so the slow boat had already filled. Don't worry, though! We got on the fast boat, at no extra charge.

I think everyone on this island has a share in the profits from tourism, so if you buy a boat ticket, it doesn't matter what tour company you go with- if one tour is full they just put you on the next one. Everything here is a cooperative. I would really find this out later.

When we arrived my jaw dropped. It was beyond gorgeous. It was the best place we had been to yet. I didn't care about having to sleep in a tent- I felt so special to be on this amazing island with an extremely small number of other foreigners. You won't get this at Ko Phi Phi, where, according to Lonely Planet (I hate that I have to keep quoting them!) you'll "be sharing the beach with every speedo known to man" or something like that. There were plenty of Thais there on vacation, but there is still a limited amount of accommodation so even if the place is full you're still only one of about three hundred souls spread out over a large area. The beach rarely had more than ten people on it at one time.

And let's talk about the water! So blue and crystal clear it brought tears to my eyes. Perfect for snorkeling, which is what I planned on doing while Pat went diving.

Unfortunately (or is it forturnate?), diving was not to be. You can only arrange trips from the mainland and, we hear, while the diving is amazing, it's in a dangerous spot and only divers with a minimum of 70 dives can do it (?). Anyways, not to worry, because everyone we spoke to said that you see more snorkeling than you do diving in this area. The snorkeling is spectacular. The water's visibility is, at times, at a maximum depth of 20 metres. That means while you would normally have to dive to see things like sharks and turtles clearly, you can enjoy them just by snorkeling in the Surins.

Um... let's make one thing clear. I love snorkeling, and I'm even getting better about snorkeling in deeper water (I'm a 'fraidy cat), but I do no, repeat DO NOT ever want to see a shark. Ok? No sharks. I want to feel like I'm floating through a magical world, full of colourful, cute fishies and pretty coloured corals (the Surins have an abundance of coral- over twenty different kinds- and it was hardly damaged at all by the tsunami). For me, snorkeling is a soul enriching exercise, like yoga. I don't do it for thrills. So when I heard the word "sharks" I almost didn't get in the water. How silly of me!

The snorkeling was everything I like it to be, only a million trillion times better. At one point, you're snorkeling past massive boulders of "brain coral" with large, colourful Parrotfish pecking at the parasites that call the coral home. The next moment, you're among little seafans and thousands of little fish, every colour of the rainbow are flying around you in a circle. The next moment, you're watching a school of big, black fish chase each other. It was just an amazing experience- and at 80 baht per snorkel trip (about CAN 3.00) it was a cheap one, too! I went on three different trips over two days and each time we went to a different spot around the islands.

On my last trip I was snorkeling solo while Pat was relaxing in the shade of our tent and, while trying to get away from the crowd (the Thai's splash too much and scare all the fish) I almost ran smack dab into a barracuda! I think he was as surprised as I was and quickly changed direction. I changed direction, too, and headed back to the boat. No thanks, don't want to see anything that might bite, poison or sting me! I'm paranoid; I get it.

After my last snorkeling trip we packed up our things and headed off the beach to get the boat back to Khuraburi. As we were about to board the slow boat, I realized that I had accidentally left the bag full of the tent, snorkels and masks that the woman had lent us. Oh no! We frantically tried to find someone to translate for us and finally got our point across to our boat taxi drivers. They didn't have to, but they agreed to take me back to get the bag and return me to the boat as quickly as possible (it was due to sail any minute). We sped back to the beach, I jumped off the side of the boat into the water (Lara Croft style), ran to where the bag was, and ran back to the boat. We raced back to the big boat, but it was too late. They had already left with my boyfriend on board!

Not to worry, friends, because I had given my boat taxi dudes my sincere thanks for taking me back to the beach (plus 160 baht, for their trouble). They were very grateful and took me to the fast boat that was just about to leave, meaning I left after Patrick and arrived in Khuraburi an hour before he did. Take that! I really loved the people on Ko Surin; they were very kind and didn't want my money.

Now we're on Ko Tao, on the other side of Thailand, because poor Patrick didn't get to go diving on the Surins. This place is full of Europeans and everything is overpriced. Today, I hate everything about it except that the island is full of rabies free dogs, and our guesthouse even has a Golden Retriever! And they have a cute baby, too. But still. I'm angry. This place is too expensive. More tomorrow? If I can afford the internet...


We were greeted by clean, clear water and wooden boats upon our arrival...



Our beach at low tide.


Takin' a little walk.


Our accommodation (less than 3 bucks a night!). Very uncomfortable.



However, the view wasn't so bad. That made up for it a little.


I did a lot of this.



And this.



Pat did a lot of sitting in the shade... oh! The totems were made by the indigenous people that still inhabit the island. In English they're known as "Sea Gypsies", but in Thai they're known as the "moken" which comes from a word meaning "salt water". They ran the whole island, and lived in a little community on one of the islands.



A slew of snorkeling boats.


Pat and his beach. At high tide. Notice: he is still sitting in the shade.

Random Pictures from Pat's Camera

We've been travelling with two cameras and finally we have a fast enough connection to upload some serious photos... here they are, in no particular order!






The view from our little hut in Perhentian Cecil.


The Ol' Swimmin' Hole. Teman Negara, Malaysia.


Taman Negara.


On the Canopy Walk, Taman Negara.


View from the canopy in Taman Negara.


Pat's shirt says "Save the Earth", incidentally enough, posing in front of the Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur.


Teman Negara National Park, Malaysia.


Out for a little walk.


On the Skybridge, Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur.


View from the Skybridge.


My dream really HAS come true!


Kuala Lumpur's public gardens.


KL


KL


KL


KL


Central Market: Kota Bahru. Old Man Making Roti Canai.



I asked for my tea to go... Jerantut Station, Malaysia.


China Town, Kuala Lumpur.



Korean advertising in Melaka.



Portuguese Egg Tarts in Melaka. Amazing.


The night food market in Melaka.


Food market in Melaka.



Posing with "Cat" at Nora's Homestay in Bukit Lawang.


Bukit Lawang



The crazy bus to Bukit Lawang. Notice the motorbike and spare tractor tire? Anything goes!



Our jungle trekking guide, Sanur and I on the shady bus to Bukit Lawang.


The beautiful mosque in Medan, Sumatra.




On the balcony of our guesthouse in Medan, wearing the Batik shirt my honourary Javanese sisters gave me on the ship.


Waiting... and waiting.... and waiting... for the driver to take us to Medan from Belawan.



The crazy port of Belawan, Sumatra.


My roomies. Meet sister, Auntie, Janine and sister.


Pat and I and some of our many fans in Yogyakarta...


Working hard, or hardly working? Guard at the Sultan's Palace, Yogyakarta.




Thoroughly impressed, apparently, with Yogya.


Lotus flower, Ubud, Bali.


Art stands in Ubud, Bali.


Pat at the Raja's palace in Ubud.


Once a golden retriever lover, always a golden retriever lover.


Babi Gulung! Ubud, Bali.


Enjoying my Babi.


Getting tired of their "steal the glasses" game. Monkey Forest,


Temple at the Monkey Forest, Ubud.


Taking a little nap on our way to Gili Trawangan, Indonesia.


Our first day in Bali... overwhelmed by artistry!