Ko Surin: Go for the Snorkeling; Stay for the... Snorkeling...

So, Thailand is pretty neat!

We just got back to civilization... sort of... after spending a few days on the Surin Islands near the Thai/Burmese border. We thought a lot of people went to these islands, but as we found out in Krabitown, no one had any idea (especially the Thais) where the Surins even were.

Why the Surins? Well, I wanted a beach, but there had to be more than that to keep Patrick happy (he sunburns easily, the little ginger kid...). We found out that the Surins were reputedly one of the top ten areas in the world to dive, and often in March and April you can see whalesharks. Well that information was more than enough for Pat to concede to going to the beach again. Plus we would have to sleep in a tent, and Pat likes camping. I tolerate it, but I love the beach. See where I'm going here? We're both making sacrifices.

So, after much speculation as to how to get there from Krabitown (since nobody seemed to know) we decided we would just go to the bus station and try our luck. Sure enough, the very first bus that we saw was going to Khuraburi, a small town which is also home to the National Park headquarters (because the Surins are also a National Marine Park). The only boat left at 9AM, so we spent the night in Khuraburi and relaxed. As soon as we got off the bus, a woman had approached us and asked if we would like to stay at her guesthouse. She also arranged absolutely everything else for us: boat tickets, a tent, snorkels and masks and fins, and transportation to the boat. She was really nice. She also had a nice cat and a cute little daughter. And her bungalows were nice, too.

Anyway, we got up bright and early the next day to catch our boat. There are two kinds of boats you can take- the fast one and the slow one. We were supposed to go on the slow one, but this past week was the Thai Lunar New Year and every family in Thailand ALSO decided to go to the Surins (which simply told us that we made the right decision- it must be a sweet place if every Thai and their dog was going there for vacation), so the slow boat had already filled. Don't worry, though! We got on the fast boat, at no extra charge.

I think everyone on this island has a share in the profits from tourism, so if you buy a boat ticket, it doesn't matter what tour company you go with- if one tour is full they just put you on the next one. Everything here is a cooperative. I would really find this out later.

When we arrived my jaw dropped. It was beyond gorgeous. It was the best place we had been to yet. I didn't care about having to sleep in a tent- I felt so special to be on this amazing island with an extremely small number of other foreigners. You won't get this at Ko Phi Phi, where, according to Lonely Planet (I hate that I have to keep quoting them!) you'll "be sharing the beach with every speedo known to man" or something like that. There were plenty of Thais there on vacation, but there is still a limited amount of accommodation so even if the place is full you're still only one of about three hundred souls spread out over a large area. The beach rarely had more than ten people on it at one time.

And let's talk about the water! So blue and crystal clear it brought tears to my eyes. Perfect for snorkeling, which is what I planned on doing while Pat went diving.

Unfortunately (or is it forturnate?), diving was not to be. You can only arrange trips from the mainland and, we hear, while the diving is amazing, it's in a dangerous spot and only divers with a minimum of 70 dives can do it (?). Anyways, not to worry, because everyone we spoke to said that you see more snorkeling than you do diving in this area. The snorkeling is spectacular. The water's visibility is, at times, at a maximum depth of 20 metres. That means while you would normally have to dive to see things like sharks and turtles clearly, you can enjoy them just by snorkeling in the Surins.

Um... let's make one thing clear. I love snorkeling, and I'm even getting better about snorkeling in deeper water (I'm a 'fraidy cat), but I do no, repeat DO NOT ever want to see a shark. Ok? No sharks. I want to feel like I'm floating through a magical world, full of colourful, cute fishies and pretty coloured corals (the Surins have an abundance of coral- over twenty different kinds- and it was hardly damaged at all by the tsunami). For me, snorkeling is a soul enriching exercise, like yoga. I don't do it for thrills. So when I heard the word "sharks" I almost didn't get in the water. How silly of me!

The snorkeling was everything I like it to be, only a million trillion times better. At one point, you're snorkeling past massive boulders of "brain coral" with large, colourful Parrotfish pecking at the parasites that call the coral home. The next moment, you're among little seafans and thousands of little fish, every colour of the rainbow are flying around you in a circle. The next moment, you're watching a school of big, black fish chase each other. It was just an amazing experience- and at 80 baht per snorkel trip (about CAN 3.00) it was a cheap one, too! I went on three different trips over two days and each time we went to a different spot around the islands.

On my last trip I was snorkeling solo while Pat was relaxing in the shade of our tent and, while trying to get away from the crowd (the Thai's splash too much and scare all the fish) I almost ran smack dab into a barracuda! I think he was as surprised as I was and quickly changed direction. I changed direction, too, and headed back to the boat. No thanks, don't want to see anything that might bite, poison or sting me! I'm paranoid; I get it.

After my last snorkeling trip we packed up our things and headed off the beach to get the boat back to Khuraburi. As we were about to board the slow boat, I realized that I had accidentally left the bag full of the tent, snorkels and masks that the woman had lent us. Oh no! We frantically tried to find someone to translate for us and finally got our point across to our boat taxi drivers. They didn't have to, but they agreed to take me back to get the bag and return me to the boat as quickly as possible (it was due to sail any minute). We sped back to the beach, I jumped off the side of the boat into the water (Lara Croft style), ran to where the bag was, and ran back to the boat. We raced back to the big boat, but it was too late. They had already left with my boyfriend on board!

Not to worry, friends, because I had given my boat taxi dudes my sincere thanks for taking me back to the beach (plus 160 baht, for their trouble). They were very grateful and took me to the fast boat that was just about to leave, meaning I left after Patrick and arrived in Khuraburi an hour before he did. Take that! I really loved the people on Ko Surin; they were very kind and didn't want my money.

Now we're on Ko Tao, on the other side of Thailand, because poor Patrick didn't get to go diving on the Surins. This place is full of Europeans and everything is overpriced. Today, I hate everything about it except that the island is full of rabies free dogs, and our guesthouse even has a Golden Retriever! And they have a cute baby, too. But still. I'm angry. This place is too expensive. More tomorrow? If I can afford the internet...


We were greeted by clean, clear water and wooden boats upon our arrival...



Our beach at low tide.


Takin' a little walk.


Our accommodation (less than 3 bucks a night!). Very uncomfortable.



However, the view wasn't so bad. That made up for it a little.


I did a lot of this.



And this.



Pat did a lot of sitting in the shade... oh! The totems were made by the indigenous people that still inhabit the island. In English they're known as "Sea Gypsies", but in Thai they're known as the "moken" which comes from a word meaning "salt water". They ran the whole island, and lived in a little community on one of the islands.



A slew of snorkeling boats.


Pat and his beach. At high tide. Notice: he is still sitting in the shade.

Dolphin Watching in Lovina

In light of my last post, I would like to say that I went to the doctor today and he gave me some xanax. Which has been nothing short of wonderful. Actually, I was worried to go to the doctor here because everyone's always going on about the "level of healthcare", yadda yadda yadda. The doctor was almost exactly the same as my doctor back home. He did a physical test and then confessed to me that even he suffers from hypochondria. Apparently, when he is alone with his thoughts, he is obsessed that something is wrong with his heart and compulsively checks his pulse. It's kinda funny that I had to come all the way across the world, to a third world country, to find a doctor who understands me. Interesting!

Anyway, this morning (after spending a *free* night at a guesthouse because we used their transport since arriving in Bali) at 6 AM, we stumbled out of our little room to go to the beach and meet a man who said he would take us dolphin watching for a few hours. When we arrived we met our sole boatmate, a Swiss girl named Sandra, which also happened to be the name of our boat. Again, interesting, no?

The guy took us out in Lovina Bay and immediately we could see that we were not the only tourists up early to catch a glimpse of the little rascals. There must have been twenty dolphin watching boats in the harbour, so our guy told us to wait patiently and we would soon have the place to ourselves. We watched with interest as he led a long string with a bell attached to the end of it into the water. I thought maybe it was a way to call the dolphins... yes, I'm lame. Actually, it was a fishing line, and it had about 30 or 40 hooks attached to it. We cruised around in the boat for maybe five minutes, and he stopped and excitedly pulled his line in, one hook at a time. He got a pretty good catch- all herring!

When more of the boats cleared out and headed for home, he took us out a little further into the harbour. Not five minutes later we saw the first of the dolphins! They were all jumping and doing crazy flips and having a great time! I would have been pleased with this alone, but by the end of the hour our boat was literally surrounded by an enormous amount of dolphins. It was a beautiful morning!

After dolphin watching, things got a little strange. He took us to a beautiful place in the water where it was clear all the way down to the bottom with hundreds of beautiful, colourful fish and said we could snorkel if we wanted. Pat and I didn't know that snorkeling was included in the deal, but Sandra seemed to be in the know, and she was a little confused that we didn't know anything about it. Oh well, if he is offering snorkeling, no problem. It was a beautiful spot so we jumped in the water (it was sooo warm) and even fed the fish little pieces of bread. They were totally unafraid of us and the entire time they would brush past my arm or leg and freak me out a bit.

After the snorkeling, he took us home and told us we owed him 10 bucks for snorkeling. Um... I don't think so! We got angry at him and told him he tricked us. Which he did. By the end of the day, he was still trying to get us back in his boat. We ignored him. Way to ruin a perfect morning, buddy.




They look so pretty in the early morning light!



Show off.



They were surrounding us.


Beautiful Lovina as seen from the harbour.



Where we went snorkeling.

Snorkeling from a Glass Bottom Boat! Lovely.

On the way back to Gili Trawangan


Lunch stop on Gili Air


O Hai.


Who's that gorgeous girl? She looks like a mermaid.



Now that I have my boyfriend back from the Scuba Divers, we were able to enjoy some lovely snorkeling time around the three Gili Islands today- something I had been wanting to do all week, but didn't want to do it without Pat. Why? Easy: because I am afraid of deep water. It just creeps me out.

However, even before coming here I had heard about the opportunities to swim with the sea turtles and I was damn certain that I would get some ample sea turtle time during our week long stay (yes, it's sad, we are leaving the Gilis tomorrow and going to Bali for a week).

So yesterday I asked our wonderful innkeeper, Tommy (note* yesterday I asked him his Balinese name and it was several words long with complicated syllables, so we will stick with Tommy), who is 28 but looks about 14, who has a girlfriend in Sulawesi, who calls him an astonishing amount of times a day, often yelling at him to call her more often, and they have been together for a year but they only saw each other for four days while he was visiting his uncle in Sulawesi... am I off track here? Oh yes.

So I asked Tommy to recommend a good boat to take us out snorkeling for the day and boy, did he deliver. We woke up the morning, ate our banana pancakes with coconut syrup (yum), and Tommy took us to a group of local men and gave us our ticket (a day long trip for about 7 bucks). We thought we would be the only people to show up, but several more people came before we left... all Austrians!

First they took us to a spot on Gili Trawangan, which was terrifying for me as the water was quite deep and I knew there were sharks ("harmless") around somewhere. Once I got into the groove, though, it was quite peaceful and not at all scary! I saw some nice fish, but my vision was impaired due to the fact that I couldn't have my glasses on and snorkel at the same time.

Next, we went to "Turtle Point", which was even deeper than the first place! Gah. The guide took us out to where the turtles were known to hang out and "we" saw two of them. I mean, I saw two blobs that I was told were turtles. Sigh. This was on the next island, Gili Meno. Less touristy and quite a nice island!

Finally, we hit my favourite spot of all! We went to the last island, and the closest Gili to Lombok, Gili Air. The water was so clear and beautiful, I could see right to the bottom, and it was teeming with beautiful, tropical fish. To hell with the sea turtles! I jumped right in and could have stayed there all day, just watching the fish dance around. They were so cool! It was great.

Our guides dropped us off on Gili Air where I had some Indonesian fried rice (nasi goreng) and we hung out in a bamboo hut until it was time to go home. Lovely day. Now, we are going to have those delicious fish n chips one last time before we leave bright and early tomorrow... I'm so sad to leave this gorgeous place, but I'm sure Bali will be exciting. Stay tuned!